Previously, I went to visit family in California for the summer. I was in a pretty bad place mentally, so I used the money I had saved up to go surfing all summer long.
And for the first time, in a long time, I was happy.
Not just happy on the waves, but at home too. It’s like the board was an extension of my body, and I was free to be me when I went out.
No homework, no stress, no group chats, no toxic friends, no mom, no dad, no yelling, no crying, just me, and the board.
Just me, surfing.
That was it.
Coming back home made me realize how much of an escape I really had, because once I was home, I couldn’t just drive down to the beach and run away from my problems.
It really sucks to become attached to something so deeply, and have to leave it in an instant.
Surfing is the only thing I want. It’s the only thing that keeps me going.
I miss it.
So much.
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5 comments
Is there any way you can move near a beach? Maybe that could be a long term goal? I wish I had an outlet/release/activity that brings me so much joy and happiness and peace. If it’s something that makes you that happy, then maybe it’s worth it to move? Ofc things like money might not make that happen for a while, but could be something you could work towards?
I’ve wondered if the same would be true for me if I could go skiing all season, haven’t tried it yet though. I agree with eternaldarkness; I think you should run towards that relief. There is a place in the universe for people to be in love with a hobby. Maybe work as a lifeguard part time to pay for it?
Totally relate to you. Used my savings to come back to a state and people I love being around (AZ). I spent everything moving, driving to, and staying at an amazing resort in Tucson. I was so floored to be met by so many angels here. To be overwhelmed with such instant connection, acceptance and friendship, even love (shoutout to Xochique- so dear to me!). Looking for jobs and living arrangements, it’s all fallen through. And now with no more money=time, I just want to go back on the roof, stare at the moon and jump. I made it my purpose to be goodness and loving and shine every last ounce of the love in my heart on everyone and thing to cross my path. Because what really is the point otherwise. And I’ve been blessed with my two weeks here, blessed to be generous of heart, time and wallet. To treat all as generously as I could manifest. I don’t want to leave. But life has a way of grinding us down, so better to leave on a high note, as it were.
Find your wave, surf the everloving hell out of it and lose yourself. Thats the only peace and happiness I’ve know too, surfing the waves of Love.
How old were you when you started? Did you teach yourself?
So my mom used to surf b/c she lived there when she was my age, and I only started a year ago. I’m trying to save up half my income so I can go back this spring break and summer. And I sorta taught myself?